Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.: July 2019

Buttermere Reflections

Just occasionally the weather in The Lake District plays ball with you and this was one of those occasions. I've learnt from past experience that calm evenings do not always mean calm water, in fact they very rarely do.

I've driven down Borrowdale and over The Hosister Pass dozens of times with the hope of finding a still Buttermere and have always been let down. Tonight was the exception though and my first glimpse of the head of the lake revealed perfect glassy reflections.

I must admit I did illegally parked my car, blocking the entrance to a field but it was only for a short time plus, at that time of night, I didn't think it would be needed. A quick walk down to the shore and the magical sight was there before my very eyes. I quickly fired off about a dozen shots and then retreated back to the car and set off to try my luck at the village end of the lake.

As my photos show, I only just made it in time. A slight breeze had started to get up and already the centre of the lake had ripples on it. In a mad rush. I made for the sole shoreline tree which seems to lose a few more branches every time I visit. I suppose the day will inevitably come when it finally finally gives up the ghost and admits defeat to the Lakeland weather and that will be a sad day.

I took a few more shots from further along the shore before the midges attacked which was to be my signal to retreat back to the village and the car.

I was very pleased with the photos and had hopefully put my Buttermere reflection obsession back to bed for a few years!

Haystacks reflection

Haystacks and High Crag reflections

Buttermere Pines

Shoreline Reflection

Lone Tree, Buttermere

Buttermere

Shoreline Reflection

Making Hay, Buttermere Village

Giving The Trossachs a Second Chance

After saying a few years ago that I wouldn't be revisiting this area due to the camping management fiasco, I had a change of heart and gave it another chance. The reason for not going up was that the powers that be had decided to close off the only two parking areas by the side of Loch Chon which were suitable to have a photo stop and to have a stretch of the legs at the same time as they were going to turn them into dedicated camping sites. As photography was my main reason for going up there, this made my 300 mile round trip totally a waste of time. I like a drive out but not that long a drive out!

As it turned out, they had only turned one of the areas into a camp site which was a bonus but, on my outward journey, it was full. I decided to carry on to Loch Arklett where I took some belting midge-free photos and then drove the extra mile to the head of Lock Katrine for a much deserved coffee and cake at the popular Stronachlachar Pier Cafe. It sits beautifully at the head of the Loch and is surrounded by some mighty fine wild hill scenery. Ben Lomond, the only Munro of this area isn't too many miles away but unfortunately is hidden from view. Nevertheless it is still an impressive place to be.

After being fed and watered I decided to try the Loch Chon car park again and, as luck would have it, someone was just pulling out as I turned in. There were people fishing and some canoeists but apart from that it was pretty quiet so I spent a nice few minutes taking photos. I didn't hang around too long as I wanted to go for a walk at the other end of Loch Katrine which, as the crow flies, may not be very far but it's a different matter if you have to go by road.

Its a canny drive though and it takes in The Duke's Pass. The Pass is regarded as one of Britain's best drives and goes through some of the most scenic parts of the Trossachs landscape. It was originally built by the Duke of Montrose in the 19th century to improve access to his estate, and was later upgraded to accommodate the Victorian tourists drawn to the area after the publication of Sir Walter Scott's epic poem 'The Lady of the Lake' which celebrates the beauty of Loch Katrine and its surroundings.

This end of Loch Katrine with its very green and wooded environs is totally different to its wild and mountainous head. The hills are much lower and it has a very chocolate box, picturesque feel to it. I arrived just as the last cruiser was coming in to dock so the place very quickly emptied. I had a nice little stroll along the grandly named Great Trossachs Path for a mile or so and then turned round and headed back to the car. Time was getting on, I was feeling hungry and I had a drive of about 150 miles still to do so I wanted to crack on.

Looking back on the day, I did enjoy it and I'm glad I made the effort to go but I think my head was still up in the far North West Highlands where I had been a few weeks previous. Some places get the heart beating faster and the adrenaline flowing quicker; Wester Ross and beyond does that for me whereas The Trossachs, albeit they are beautiful in their own way, leave you yearning for bigger, wilder and more exciting places.

Across Loch Katrine

Loch Katrine

Loch Arklet

Loch Ard Forest

Loch Chon

Loch Katrine

Back to The Lakes and a walk up Grange Fell

It was less than a week after returning from my Highlands trip and I was out and about in Borrowdale. How privileged am I? I had intended to just follow the ancient bridleway from Rosthwaite over to Watendlath but at the top of the pass, I decide to head right and go up Grange Fell (or Brund Fell or Jopplety How) as it is also known instead.

It must have been twenty years since I was last up these parts and so, with a fine clear sunny day, I plumped for some mountain views as opposed to the valley and tarn down at Watendlath. Putting the weather aside, I couldn't have picked a better time of year as the entire tops of the fell was a carpet of heather.

The climb was by no means hard but the hot sun did slow me down somewhat. Unusually for me, I had prepared myself for the day and had brought a packed lunch and a drink. I found a nice comfy spot amongst the heather and sat and ate my scram on the top of the fel; looking south to the head of Borrowdale with the Scafell Range and Great Gable beyond.

With most people heading for the high fells and honeypots these days, I found myself having the entire fell top to myself. It was their loss because as you can see from the photos there can't be many more beautiful places in Lakeland. Haystacks and maybe Walla Crag immediately spring to mind as being tops that could be put in the this category but both of those would have been crammed with people on a day like this.

I reckon I spent a good half hour sitting and admiring the all round view. As I previously said, the high fells of Lakeland and the head of Borrowdale were to the south and, as if that wasn't good enough, Derwentwater backed by Skiddaw and Blencathra were to the north. Dalehead and the North Western Fells were just across the valley and they completed my view perfectly.

The walk back down was a bit of a slog plus the sun was in my face and at its hottest. There wasn't much cover so it was a relief to get back down to valley level and the car. It was still only early afternoon and I had plenty of time to do more if I'd have wanted but as my day had been more or less perfect, I just opted to return to the site and have an ice cold beer or two and relax.

Happy Days.