Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.: May 2022

Exford and Withypool, Somerset

This was out last day in Somerset and the sun was shining. We weighed up various options and in the end decided to go on a short drive to visit a couple of villages we had never been to before. The reason was, I didn't fancy doing too much s the next day I had a long journey back up to Yorkshire. I'd previously read good reports of a cafe in Withypool so we combined that with a round trip which took in Exford and Simonsbath as well.

All three villages fell within Exmoor National Park so I hid it in my mind that it would be a good day to go in search of some Exmoor Ponies as well.

Our first post of call was Exford. The centre of the village surrounds a traditional village green, and is home to a post office, general store, car repair shop and youth hostel and is obviously the hub of the area. Signposts led off here, there and everywhere so it was clearly, in the past, an important commercial centre. Add to that there was a couple of old coaching inns that accommodated both past and present travellers.

We enjoyed a quick coffee and an explore before setting off in search of Withypool. I think it was only half a dozen miles down the road and was a smaller version of Exford. It had a village store, cafe and pub so what more could anyone wish for. The cafe certainly lived up to expectations. I had a goats cheese and butternut quiche served with a side salad and crisps and it had obviously been made by the owner of the cafe. It was absolutely gorgeous. Sal wasn't too hungry so just had a toasted teacake and a pot of tea.

After refreshments we had a walk down to the river and it was only there we realised that we were just a couple of miles away from another Somerset favourite, Tarr Steps.

We then carried on our journey to Simonsbath but first made a detour on to Exmoor itself in search of some pony action. Just past the turn off to Tarr Steps and conveniently near to a parking spot, we saw a group of ponies. I gingerly got out of the car with the camera so as not to disturb then but needn't have worried as they were very accommodating and let me take photos of them. My holiday was now complete!

Simonsbath was a bit of a let down after Exford and Withypool so we didn't bother stopping. I don't know how I managed it but we ended up returning to our base via Watersmeet and Lynmouth on a back road I had never been on before. We could really have done without that as it added a fair few miles on to our journey and left us feeling pretty jaded by the end of it.

In the evening I had a walk down to Watchet Harbour for the final time whilst Sal stayed in our holiday home. It was tinged with a bit of sadness of our leaving and also with a bit of apprehension of what was in store for me when I got back home and the start my radiotherapy.

It had been a great holiday though, full of fun, and with good memories to carry with me on my fight against my cancer. Already looking forward to next years visit.

Exford

Withypool

River Barle Withypool

Withypool

River Barle Withypool

Cafe at Withypool

River Barle

Exmoor Ponies

Exmoor Pony

Somerset Randomness

Mainly photos taken around Watchet, Minehead and our day out on The West Somerset Railway. Contrary to local public opinion, both Sal and I loved the new East quay complex built on the dilapidated old East Quay shipyard which was a right mess the last time we stayed. I think its the modern architecture the locals can't get on with but we both liked it. It is used as an arts centre, has some nice independent shops and, more importantly, a cracking little cafe. I believe they also stage concerts on a seasonal basis.

Our visit to Minehead was to do a bit of shopping and to get a parking ticket in the process. Word of advice, always closely check the ticket machine number which your parking app picks up!

The day on the West Somerset Railway was ace and a true step back in time. Unfortunately our timetable was cut short due to a fault on the line which was having to be manually checked, this resulted in us missing our visit to Bishops Lydeard.

They delay did give us time for a coffee, a wander along the front at Minehead and also to have a quick play on the slots before getting the last train back to Watchet.

Easy Quay Complex

Watchet

Love

Watchet

Pebbles Tavern

Minehead

Monksilver

West Somerset Railway

Lynton and Lynmouth

Not much more to say about this day out that hasn't already been said in previous blogs. The weather was ace, the funicular railway was working again (after being closed for the pandemic) and the scenery as stunning as ever. As I said in my first blog about Lynton and Lynmouth, the view, both up and down the coastline as you come down Countisbury Hill into Lynmouth, is possibly the most breathtaking and beautiful view I have ever seen.

Two added bonuses for the day were a nice walk through the old town of Lynton and a visit to Mother Meldrum's Tearoom in The Valley of Rocks. Mother Meldrum was a character from Lorna Doone by R D Blackmore and was reputedly a witch who lived in a cave in one of the large rock formations in the valley. Splendid food along with splendid views. The tuna mayo sandwiches went down really well.

Also it was nice to get close-up views of the many wild goats who live in the Valley of Rocks, they were quite comical both in their looks and habits and seem quite content to share their habitat with the many tourists.

We had out first daytime drinks of the holiday as well, sitting outside of The Rising Sun which is situated right next to Lynmouth Harbour, it was nice just to be able to sit and watch the world go by once again.

The Foreland from Countisbury Hill

Towards Lynmouth and Lynton

The Foreland from Countisbury Hill

Sal with Lynmouth and Lynton behind

Lynmouth Harbour

Devon Coastline

The Valley of Rocks

Wild Goat

Having a scratch

Monksilver, Stogumber, Treborough and Cleeve Abbey, Somerset

I always love visiting Cleeve Abbey, which is just a short drive up the road from Watchet in Somerset, possibly because we always pick a warm, sunny day to do it. The abbey was founded in the late twelfth century as a house for monks of the austere Cistercian order. Over its 350-year monastic history Cleeve was undistinguished amongst the abbeys of its order, frequently ill-governed and often financially troubled. The sole member of the community to achieve prominence was John Hooper, who became a bishop during the Reformation.

In 1536 Cleeve was closed by Henry VIII in the course of the Dissolution of the Monasteries and the abbey was converted into a country house. Subsequently, the status of the site declined and the abbey was used as farm buildings until the latter half of the nineteenth century when steps were taken to conserve the remains.

In the twentieth century Cleeve was taken into state care; the abbey is now looked after by English Heritage and is open to the public. Today Cleeve Abbey is one of the best-preserved medieval Cistercian monastic sites in Britain. While the church is no longer standing, the conventual buildings are still roofed and habitable and contain many features of particular interest including the 'angel' roof in the refectory and the wall paintings in the painted chamber.

For more detailed information see wiki/Cleeve_Abbey

Prior to going to The Abbey, Sal and I went to look at two nearby villages, one of which I found a few days earlier: Monksilver and the other Strogumber, which I had read about on the internet.

Monksilver was just the epitome an English Village, looking absolutely beautiful with all the summer garden flowers just about to come in to full bloom and with many of the cottages still having their thatched roofs.

Strogumber looked just the same albeit somewhat larger. Also the locals here had decorated the outside of their church with knitted flowers for the Queen's Jubilee and were also in the process of decorating the interior. I have posted photos of both villages.

On our way back to Cleeve, I took Sal to see some impressive old limestone kilns in Treborough Plantation near Roadwater which I came across on a previous visit. We had tried to find them a few days earlier but had turned back as I though we had taken the wrong road. As it turned out, we were on the right road and if we'd have carried on another half mile we would have come across them. I have not been able to find any history about them but have included photos of them as well.

All in all a very interesting and rewarding day.