Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.

Back to my Happy Place

Ever since lockdown was announced and the caravan site closed, I have longed for the day when I would be back walking down Borrowdale. Of all the places in the Lakes, it is the one place I can visit time after time and its beauty never diminishes. Wainwright once said of Borrowdale "It encloses one mile of country containing no high mountain, no lake, no famous crag, no tarn. But, in the author's humble submission it encloses the loveliest square mile in Lakeland - the Jaws of Borrowdale". I can't argue with that and I'd even extend it to include the whole area between the villages of Grange, Rosthwaite, Stonethwaite, Seatoller and Seathwaite.

No text I can give can do this area or this walk justice, the photos say it all. Every footstep is a sheer delight, every view takes the breath away. This is the place I connect with and this is the place that I call home. This is the place I feel comfortable in and this is the place I love. This is the place I couldn't live without.

Stonethwaite

Pony Route to Stake Pass

Stonethwaite Beck Cascade

Stonethwaite Beck

Landstrath Beck Cascades

Pony Route to Stake Pass

Landstrath Beck Cascades

Pony Route to Stake Pass

Landstrath Beck

Tree Art, Landstrath Beck

Waters Meet

Stonethwaite Beck

Cumbria Way

Eagle Crag

Coffee and a stroll by Whelpo Beck

Back up in The Lakes and this time I'm on my own because Sal has gone to Sheffield to spend some time with her mum. I didn't fancy driving too far and also fancied a coffee so, after racking my brains for a few minutes, I came up with Priest's Mill Cafe and Caldbeck. I certainly don't feel comfortable going in to Keswick or any of the other hotspots at the moment so The Northern lakes was the obvious choice.

The coffee touched the spot as did the slice of carrot cake I treated myself to. The obvious walk from Caldbeck is to follow Cald Beck and Whelpo Beck through the gorge known as The Howk and carry on as far as Whelpo Bridge. The walk passes many cascades, goes through native woodlands, passes wildflower meadows and every step is an absolute joy. The only downside is that you either have to retrace your steps or come back via the road. I opted for the second option as its a pretty quiet road and you get back in no time at all. Looking at the OS map, there is a bridleway back which is just a bit higher up the fell side which I'll have a look at that next time I go.

The Howk was one of the most northerly of more than 100 bobbin mills in Cumbria.The fast flowing rivers of the Lake District being ideal as a source of power for the mills. At one time Lakeland mills accounted for about half the bobbins produced in Britain. The Howk mill also made handles for picks, washing dollies and cartwheel spokes, with the hardwood coppiced from around Caldbeck and stored in this large two storey coppice shed. The mill made bobbins for the textile industry from 1857 until 1924 and it had the largest waterwheel in the country which was 3 feet wide and 42 feet in diameter.

The weather was really gorgeous throughout the walk and I really enjoted it, the coffee and cake were just the icing on the cake.

Priest's Mill

Cald Beck Cascade

Cald Beck

Ruined outbuilding

Path to The Howk

Whelpo Beck

Footpath to Whelpo

Whelpo Beck

Fell Pony, Whelpo

The Howk

The Howk

Larch Cottage with Sal

Back to The Lakes with Sal, I thought it was never going to happen! She needed to get away for some peace and relaxation as this year and the last month in particular had been very hard for her. Her dad's funeral was very moving and all the preparations that her and James did turned it in to a celebration of his life. Tears were shed all round but there was also plenty of laughter. We all went to The Red Lion in Grenoside after the service and raised a glass or two in his memory.

We had intended going to Lowther Castle but when we turned up, the main car park was full and the large additional car park was almost full as well. It then dawned on us that the Lost Castle Adventure Playground had just reopened so we beat a hasty retreat and decided on a visit to Larch Cottage Nurseries in Melkinthorpe instead.

It is classed as a garden centre but as the photos show, it is much much more than that. It has the most delightful cafe and to our surprise, it was open for business. We both had a cappucino before exploring the many nooks and crannies of the gardens. We always say that we will have some lunch there but never seem to get round to it, maybe next time.

It was great to be up in The Lakes with Sal again and to see her relaxing and having a smile on her face.