Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.

Staying Local

The past five days had been pretty tiring so we decided to make our first day in Wester Ross a local and relaxing day. Having said that I bet we still drove about twenty five miles in total and that was just going to the nearest shops and back!

On our way in to Gairloch, we drove past the secluded cove of Sheildaig which was only a mile or so out of Badachro and saw our first colony seals out on the rocks, not a bad way to start the holiday. Come the end of the week, I'm sad to say that seeing seals had become a regular occurrence and we finished up being quite blase about them.

One of the highlights of last years holiday was our visits to The Mountain Coffee Company Cafe at Strath which is really just a continuation of Gairloch and we were relieved to see that it was open for business again after the lockdown. The coffee was just as good, as was its ambience. There is always a hippytype 1960's feeling of peace and love in the place because everything and everyone is so laid back.

After out caffeine hit, we had a short walk along Strath beach. Unfortunately the tide was almost in so very little sand was showing but Sal still managed to do a bit of beach combing and came away with some interestingly shaped and coloured small shells.

We stopped for a wander around Gairloch Harbour on our way back and had yet another seal encounter. This one was massive and was circling under the pier hoping for one of the locals to land a catch. Both the fisherman and the seal were out of luck but at least it enabled Sal to get a cracking photo of the seal with its head popping out of the water and she came away a very happy bunny.

By now it was late afternoon so we decided to just head back to the cottage and relax. When you are staying in a hotel you think you have to make the most of every hour of the day but staying in a holiday let takes that pressure off and that day we were quite content to just sit and relax and enjoy being together.

Badachro

Early morning reflections, Badachro

Early m0rning Badachro

Loch Gairloch reflection, Badachro

Sunken boat, Badachro

Capsized boat, Badachro

Boat remains, Badachro

In need of TLC, Badachro

Badachro Jetty

Strath Beach

Montbretia, Badachro

Heading North

Well today was the day which I though might never come this year. Even the week before we set off for Scotland I still had doubts that the trip would go ahead due to the covid-19 pandemic. In fact it wasn't until we left the caravan on the Wednesday morning that I started to relax and realise that we were going to get back to Badachro and the lovely Blacksmith's Cottage. Our three nights in Fort William had been nice and we had visited some ace places but the icing on the cake as far as out trip was concerned was the stay in Wester Ross with its breathtaking coastal and mountain scenery.

There were a few ways we could have gone up there but I opted for the slightly longer scenic route; heading towards The Kyle of Lochalsh and then going on The Wester Ross Coastal Route, most of which goes inland! I knew Sal would like Plockton so we broke our journey up by paying it a visit. It was only a few miles off our intended route anyway and gave us both a chance to stretch our legs. It sits on a sheltered bay just a few miles from the Kyle of Lochalsh and commands stunning views overlooking Loch Carron. It's where all of the photos of the day were taken as well.

We also stopped for a coffee at The Waterdside Cafe in Lochcarron village and did some food shopping before heading off on the final leg of our journey. It had been a long day and I was a bit on auto pilot until we hit Kinlochewe.

It was then just a case of following the banks of Loch Maree which in my opinion is the most beautiful Loch in Scotland. We passed The Loch Maree Hotel where I have stayed on many occasions and I felt quite sad at seeing it closed. I know the owners had it on the market and I fear the Covid pandemic has been the final nail in the coffin for them.

The turn off for Badachro soon appeared and was accompanied by rousing cheers all round. The boot was emptied, food put away, cases taken upstairs and an alcoholic drink was poured for the two of us. Sal went for a lie down and a chill and I took my beer out into our garden which overlooked Loch Gairloch where I let out a big sigh of relief and just took in the stunning view.

Plockton Jetty

Loch Carron

Old Harbour, Plockton

Lavatera, Plockton

Arrived at last

Ardnamurchan

Friday was the better of our two days in Fort William so we picked that day to travel over to Ardnamurchan. The only feasible way to get over to there is via the Corran Ferry (about ten miles down the road from Fort William). Once across Loch Linnhe, there is still a forty five mile drive; a thirty five mile section of which is on single track roads with passing places. Strontian marks the end of normal roads and the start of the single track roads so we stopped off for a break there.

The worst section of road is from a village called Salen on Loch Sunart to The Natural History Centre at Glenmore which I should imagine was about ten miles in length and pure driving hell with one blind bend after another. The Natural History Centre really is a godsend or rather the cafe there is. We had a lovely coffee each and some breakfast. For the first time in my entire life I had beans on toast topped with cheese and how I loved it.

Suitably refreshed we left Loch Sunart and started to head inland, first stopping off at the fantastic viewpoint over looking Camas nan Geall and Ben Haint which once was a volcano. The viewpoint also gives a grand view across to The Isle of Mull. The next section of the road to Kilchoan circumnavigates Ben Haint which again adds a fair few miles on to the trip but the scenery more than makes up for it.

Finally we saw the signpost for Ardnamurchan Lighthouse and Sanna Bay and as we didn't have the time to visit both places, we turned off on to a single track road to Sanna. Fifteen minutes later we pulled in to the car park, got our camera gear out and headed off through the dunes to the beach.

Sanna Bay doesn't let you down in any way shape or form, the photos are proof of that. We couldn't have hoped for better weather either as we had plenty of blue skies and a nice accompanying breeze which really blew the cobwebs off. We stayed there for quite a while, exploring both beaches. Sal did her usual beach combing and collected lots of little shells whilst I spent most of my time looking for dolphins out in the bay. We were unlucky though, I think the weather was a bit too wild for them to come too close to land.

We came back a slightly different way. At Salen we headed northwards past Loch Moidart to a tiny settlement called Glenuig where we intended calling for a pint but the inn was closed due to the covid-19 pandemic. The last part of our route was on good fast roads. We followed the shore of Loch Ailort and then joined The Road to the Isles which we had been on the previous day.

We had a table booked in the hotel restaurant again and were a bit pushed for time so we couldn't stop off at Glenfinnan, I think Sal must be destined never to visit the Harry Potter railway viaduct or the Jacobite Memorial but then again there is always next year!

It had been a long day but a very enjoyable one and the evening was finished off very nicely with a mighty fine meal at The Nevis Bank Hotel.

Camas nan Geall and Ben Haint

Sand Dunes, Sanna Bay

Sanna Bay

Jellyfish

Sanna Bay

Bare-footed Beach Comber

Glenuig

The Road to the Isles

Holiday time again. Me and Sal had a cottage booked in Badachro, Wester Ross for a week and, as I had always wanted to take her on The Road to the Isles and to Sanna Bay, we booked accommodation in Fort William for three nights on our way up.

After our long trip up, we decided on doing the short drive to Mallaig on Thursday and then do the longer day to Ardnamurchan on Friday. We made a good choice as the weather was much better on Friday. So off we went on The Road to The Isles.

We had intended stopping at Glenfinnan to visit Bonnie Prince Charlie's Monument but the car park was full and also the other two parking areas had been blocked off, presumably during lockdown. The weather wasn't that great plus the place was teeming with visitors so we wouldn't have seen the place at its best anyway. Sometimes its best just to move on.

The road is a sheer delight with beautiful Lochs, majestic hills, picturesque rivers and secluded bays and beaches accompany it's 40 mile route to the port of Mallaig.

The only settlements you come across are the sleepy coastal village of Arisaig (meaning The Safe Bay) and then a few miles further westwards Morar which gives its name to The Silver Sands. Morar and is also home to Scotland's shortest salmon river, namely the River Morar which is only 400yds in length.

The Arisaig area is also the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie embarked for France on the 20 September 1746 and The Prince's Cairn lies on the shores of Loch Nan Uamh, a few miles east of the village.

Morar was originally a crofting area so the present settlement is quite modern; having been built around the West Highland Railway's station which I presume was built there to serve the whole of the coastal peninsula.

Sal is a beach person so I took her to my two favoutites, namely Lon Liath which is just out of Arisaig and Camasdarach which is a few miles further on. Lon Liath is quite rocky and gives great views across to The Small Isles whereas Camusdarach is a sweeping sandy bay and looks over to Skye. We were lucky with the weather as the rain seemed to have stayed in the mountains even though there was a bit of a breeze at Camusdarch but then again there always is. We walked the full length of the beach and back and had the cobwebs well and truly blown off us. I think it was Sal's idea of heaven.

We did carry on to Mallaig but by then the rain had returned so we didn't get out of the car. The return journey was a bit miserable and we were accompanied by rain for the most part. Glenfinnan car park was still full despite of this but by then we were past caring and just wanted to get back to the hotel.

In the evening we had a smashing meal in our hotel before retiring to our room for an early night.