Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.: sands

A day out to the finest cafe in the area and then the finest beach...what more could one ask for?

Whenever we are up this way, we always go to The Perfume Factory at Melon Charles, mainly for the coffee and cake. It is not easy to get to but is well worth the effort, being beautifully situated on the edge of Loch Ewe and also having magnificent views all round, weather permitting. I've had some drenching here in the past and came very close to one this day but, experience had given me just a good enough head start to get back to the car in time.

It was then just a short drive up the coast to Melon Udrigle which, I think, is everyone's favourite beach in this area. The views up to The Summer Isles and Coigach and across to An Teallach are simple superb, as is the beach itself and the clear blue waters.

The weather was perfect for photography as well. All around there seemed to be dark brooding squalls but miraculously, we managed to steer clear of them. On our way back to the car I could see one approaching and unfortunately, it was a race we lost but compared to some of the previous drenchings I've had in these parts, this one was relatively mild!

It had been our intention to visit Gruinard Bay as well but the rain looked to have set in for the day so, after sitting in the car for a wee while waiting for it to brighten, we decided to call it a draw and head back to Badachro. One good thing to come out of our early departure was that it gave us the chance to visit the Museum at Gairloch.

Gairloch Museum is located in a converted nuclear bunker with galleries showcasing the history, culture and natural heritage of the beautiful area of the North West Highlands. Displays include the original lens from Rubh Re lighthouse which we visited the previous year, a replica croft house showing how people used to live and an interactive gallery about the area's natural world, midges and all!

Add to that a cafe and what more could you ask for?

Melon Charles

Loch Ewe from Melon Charles

Melon Charles

Viewpoint Melon Charles

Distant hills of Coigach

Melon Udrigle

Sand dunes, Melon Udrigle

Loch Gruinard

The Road to the Isles runs Fort William to Mallaig and, even though only about 45 miles in length, usually takes me a whole day to complete both ways. The first section to Corpach is quite industrial and the views don't really start until you near Glenfinnan with its Jacobite Monument. Glenfinnan is the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie raise the Scottish Standard in 1745 and called all the clans to arms to regain the throne from his father James Stewart.

Its other claim to fame is the Glenfinnan Viaduct which has 21 semicircular spans of 50 feet^. It is the longest concrete railway bridge in Scotland at 416 yards, and crosses the River Finnan at a height of 100 feet. The West Highland Line it carries is single track and the viaduct is 18 feet wide between the parapets and built on a curve of 792 feet.

After leaving Glenfinnan, the road passing through a series of narrow gorges until it reaches Loch Eilt. It then follows the River Ailort through another gorge which is towered over by Rois-bheinn and An Stac , two hills which are not far off being Munros. The shore of Loch Ailort is then skirted before the road rises past Our Lady of the Braes Roman Catholic Church at Polnish; this was made famous by the film Local Hero starring Burt Lancaster which is about an American oil company who sends a man to Scotland to buy up an entire village where they want to build a refinery.

The road then drops down to a sea loch called Loch nan Uamh which is where Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) landed on 5th August 1745. In 1746, after the battle of Culloden, he returned there as a fugitive with a price of £30,000 on his head and set sail to France. Loch nan Uamh means "The Loch of the Cave".

It is then a short drive along the newly upgraded A830T to Arisaig which is set in it's own little amphitheatre and has stunning views across to Rhum, Eigg and Muck. It's beautiful sands and coves have such romantic place names as Keppoch, Portnaluchaig, Camas an Daraich (known as Camusdarach) and Morar and are a photographer and walkers paradise. I can spend all day exploring these few miles of coastline and, if you go at the right time of year, you won't see another person.

The weather was never really good but deteriorated rapidly when I reached Mallaig. I had wanted to spend some time there but only managed a quick walk round the town before the rain arrived. It threw it down all the way back to Fort William so no further stops were made.

Enjoyed my few beers in town that night. A new pub has opened which is owned by The Orkney Brewery, the beer is good, the food is good and the atmosphere is good. It could become a regular haunt on future visits.