Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.: Lochan na Stainge

Showing posts with label Lochan na Stainge. Show all posts

Loch Arkaig and Glen Nevis

A local day as I'd covered a fair few miles during my short stay plus I had a long drive home the next day.

I took the back road out of Banavie which eventually brings you out at The Commando Monument at Spean Bridge but turned off it part way along to take me to Clunes on the banks of Loch Lochy.

I then headed along The Mile Dorcha (The Dark Mile) to Eas Chia-aig waterfall at Loch Arkaig. The dark mile go its name from the fact it is a narrow wooded valley which gets very little sunshine, thus the walls are all thickly covered in mosses. Legend has it that when Bonnie Prince Charlie fled Scotland, he burried a stash of gold which the French had sent him to finance the 1745 rebellion and, to this day, it has never been found.

My afternoon was spent down Glen Nevis, walking down by The Waters Of Nevis and then going up to The Lower Falls. The photos give a better insight than my words would but, sufice to say, there is no more beautifull valley than Glan Nevis when the sun is shining and there are no bloody midges biting you!

I returned to my hotel and had a few drinks sat by the side of The Caledonian canal. The perfect end to a very enjoyable day and visit.

Through The Trees

Caledonian Pines, Loch Lochy

Eas Chia-aig, Loch Arkaig

Mamores from Glen Nevis

Glen Nevis

Waters of Nevis

Top of The Ben

Glen Nevis

Distand Ben Nevis at Sunset

Àird nam Murchan

I've been to, and blogged about Ardnamurchan many times so I wont go into the detail again. Basically my route took me across Loch Linnhe via The Coran Ferry and a nice wide road took me past Seal Isle (my name for it) as far as Strontion where I had a coffee sitting outside the local cafe/stores. I usually stop at the Natural History Centre at Glenmore but its season hadn't started which was a shame as it's a great place to stop after the horrors of the 18 mile mainly single track road from Strontian.

The road then rose to Camus nan Geall and around the base of Ben Hiant, an extinct volcano to Kilchoan. A single track side road then led across the Ardnamurchan peninsula to Sanna Bay and heaven. Not only was it heaven because of its scenery but also because I had the entire place to myself. A few dog walkers did eventually appear but I can live with that. Go in summer and its a completely different place, milling with holiday makers and more akin to the beach at Blackpool!

I spent a few hours there and then headed to the Lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point. The last time I came, the final half mile of this route was controlled by a traffic light system as it is literally single track with NO passing places and very twisty but, horror of horrors, there was none to be seen. In the end I took my life in my hands and just set off and thankfully met no-one coming the opposite way.

The cafe wasn't open so I had the food I'd brought with me whilst looking across the sound towards The Small Isles and The Isle of Skye. A rocky wilderness on the one side of me and blue seas on the other. After leaving the lighthouse I drove a mile or so to a small coastal settlement called Portuairk which is the most westerly settlement on mainland Britain and was another hidden gem but as it was getting late in the afternoon and I had a long journey back, I didn't stay too long but I will certainly return for a longer visit.

I reluctantly left the peninsula and headed back and broke my journey to Banavie with a customary pint at The Glenuig Inn which is situated in a secluded bay overlooking The Sound of Arisaig. I came here many years ago and nearly died when I was charged a fiver for a pint. However on today's visit, it was the cheapest pint I'd had during my entire break, I think it was about £3.60 for a pint of delicious local ale.

It was then a fast road all the way back to my hotel for a well earned rest and another pint.

Glencoe across Loch Linnhe

Ben Nevis

Cumus nan Geall

The White House

Sanna Bay

Ardnamurchan Point

Ardnamurchan Point Lighthouse

Ardnamurchan Point

The Small Isles

Ardnamurchan Point

Portuairk

Stag

The Road To The Isles

It was a cold morning and I had hoped there might be a bit of mist on the Loch Sheil but it wasn't to be. The car park at Glenfinnan was already starting to fill and coachloads of tourist were milling about so I didn't bother stopping and instead headed for Arisaig for an excellent cappuccino in the harbour coffee shop. From the outside it doesn't look like anything special but inside it's clean, modern and has a nice little gift shop tucked away in the corner which sells things made by local artists etc.

There was a bitterly cold wind blowing across the harbour so I didn't hang around too long before setting off to my next port of call, the sands and bays of the Morar coastline. The local council had made parking a lot more difficult since my last visit and I can understand why. The last time I came, which was last summer, it was absolutely chaotic and totally gridlocked in places due to ridiculous parking. People were just leaving their cars anywhere irrespective of whether they were blocking the flow of traffic or not.

Now banking has been built on to most of the roadsides so that only the few carparks can be used. This was perfect for me as it was out of season and quiet but, I hate to think what it will be like in summer when all the visitors turn up and they realise there isn't anywhere to park.

I stopped at my usual beaches, Lon Lath, Camas Rubha a Mhurain, Camusdarach and finally The Silver Sands of Morar beach. All the beaches in this area have wonderful white sands and lots of dramatic rock scenery as my photos show. Out of season it is the most peaceful and relaxing place to be and the views across to Skye, Egg, Rum and Muck add perfection to the scene.

It was then only a few more miles to Mallaig where I had a wander, bought some lunch at a local bakery and then headed back to Banavie via the same route. Glenfinnan was still buzzing with tourists so again I didn't stop but just returned to the hotel and put my feet up for a couple of hours. Evening was spent down at Corpach where I got a quite nice sunset before having my customary couple of beers back at the hotel.