Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.: shipwreck

This day turned out to be the sunniest day of the holiday so we specifically picked it for going through Torridon and over The Bealach na Goaithe to Diabaig.

Thankfully the Torridon Stores cafe was open this year, so we had a coffee each and sat on one of the benches outside which was no imposition as the view is fantastic. They also made us two excellent tuna sandwiches to take away with us.

The narrow road to Diabaig followed the right hand side of Loch Torridon before rising up in a series of zig-zags to a pass named Bealach na Gaoithe which is Gaelic for The Pass of the Wind. The views back across Upper Loch Torridon and over to Applecross were stunning and this year, with the weather being fine we got to take some fantastic photos.

The road then continued towards Loch Daibaigas Airde where we had even more superb albeit terrifying views. If you are afraid of heights then I'd recommend not to look down to the Loch as it is far, far below the road and it looks a pretty sheer drop. The rest of the journey down to Lower Diabaig though was very pleasant, apart from us picking bin emptying day for our journey. The one thing you don't want to come across on these roads is a massive refuge truck!

Lower Diabaig consisted of a lovely collection of cottages dotted on the hill-side and alongside the road which eventually led down to the pier. There was lots more evidence that, in the past, it had been quite a busy fishing village and I think a few locals still fish from there but it is mainly oyster fishing. There were old fishing huts boarded up and also one or two run down cottages that were just screaming out for a bit of restoration, it was such a shame.

There was also a shipwreck just offshore called The Dayspring which broke its moorings during a hurricane in 2005 and ended up in the bay. Each time I visit there seems to be less and less remaining which I should imagine bears testament to the weather and storms this area often gets. It still makes for a cracking photo though.

There's no way out of Lower Diabaig other than the way you come in so we retraced our footsteps all the way back to Badachro, stopping at the top ofthe Bealach to eat our sandwiches.

A path does lead from Lower Diabaig along the coast to Red Point, a distance of some 8 miles and then Red Point is only 5.5 miles from Badachro but unfortunately the road journey is some 40 miles! In good weather it is the most beautiful 40 miles

Loch Torridon

Bealach na Goaithe Road

Diabaig

Diabaig Shipwreck

Diabaig

Shipping Bell

Diabaig

Diabaig Harbour

Diabaig Shipwreck

Diabaig

Diabaig Harbour

The Bealach na Goaithe

Unknown Lochan

The Bealach na Goaithe

The Bealach na Goaithe Viewpoint

Rainbow over Loch Maree

Thursday promised to be the best day of our two remaining days so, with the sun shining, we decided to head down Torridon way and maybe have a walk to Loch Clair and then just take things from there. We then would have three options; we could go to Shieldaig on the coast and then do a circular route back round to Loch Maree; we could drive on the coastal road to Applecross but we would need sunny weather for this, or we could go over to Lower Diabaig which is an old fishing village at the head of Loch Torridon. Sal had been to Applecrosss and driven part of the Shielbaig road so the obvious place would be Lower Diabaig.

Whilst Sal was getting ready, I jumped in the car and paid a quick visit to Red Point Beach. I only drove about nine miles but the difference in the weather was quite marked. Looking across to the North West, it was ok but there looked to be some terrible weather over on Skye and behind me, Torridon didn't look too promising either. I just managed to walk down to the beach, take some photos and get back to the car before the heavens opened. Fortunately it was only a quick shower and the weather was nice again by the time I got back to Badachro.

Sal was ready for the off so we jumped back in the car and headed for Loch Maree. Our first port of call was Victoria Falls, named after Queen Victoria who used to come and spend her summers in this area. They were quite spectacular but the sun was directly in front which made it nigh-on impossible for us to get a good shot. No visit to this area would be complete without the customary photos of Loch Maree and its Munro "Slioch" which is Gaelic for The Spear and, as the sun was still shining, we both got some belting photos of both.

It was then on to Glen Torridon. We parked opposite the track to the Coulin Estate which, if followed its entire length, goes through some fabulous mountain scenery but we just walked down to Loch Clair and as far the bridge separating it from Loch Coulin. We hadn't really done any walking so far in the holiday so I thought it would do us both the world of good, and it did.

We started off in nice bright weather but I could see the rain clouds building up over the hills. Past experience in the Lakes has told me that weather can be very localized and that proved to be the case. We did get a few spots of light rain but nothing compared to what seemed to be coming down less that a mile away across the other side of the Loch. The autumn colours were fabulous as were the views of the high Torridon hills.We both thoroughly enjoyed our little excursion.

The word "coffee" kept being murmured on our walk back to the car plus we were both getting a bit peckish so we headed straight to a great little cafe which was incorporated in with the local Torridon Stores. We both gave the cappuccinos and bacon butties 5 out of 5 which ranked them up there with the very best. I think our only other two 5 star coffee shops are the one at Lanercost Priory in Cumbria and the one at Ripley Castle in North Yorkshire.

Fed and watered we set off for our final destination, Lower Diabaig. The narrow road followed the right hand side of Loch Torridon before rising up in a series of zig-zags to a pass named Bealach na Gaoithe which is Gaelic for The Pass of the Wind. The views back across Upper Loch Torridon and over to Applecross were stunning even though they were hampered a bit by the cloud and rain squalls sweeping across but on a clear day I reckon you could see for mile after mile.

The road then continued towards Loch Daibaigas Airde where we had even more superb albeit terrifying views. If you are afraid of heights then I'd recommend not to look down to the loch as the it is far, far below the road and it looks a pretty sheer drop! Talk about vertigo!!

The rest of the journey down to Lower Diabaig was pretty uneventful apart from a nice rainbow momentarily appearing. The place itself consisted of a lovely collection of cottages dotted on the hill-side along the road which eventually lead down to the pier. There was lots more evidence that in the past it had been quite a busy fishing village and I think a few locals still fish from there but it is mainly oyster fishing. There was old fishing huts boarded up and also one or two run down cottages that were just screaming out for a bit of tlc, it was such a shame.

I think most of the houses and cottages must be holiday lets as I have been there three times now and have hardly seen anyone at all. Infact I think I've seen more herons there than people; one was stood at the water's edge fishing for its dinner whilst we were there and I've seen them on previous occasions as well.

Our drive back was by the same route and we were both really glad to get back to Badachro and just chill-out. I think this may have been the longest day of our holiday and we had crammed a lot in it.

There are two thinks of note about Lower Diabaig -

1/ There is a shipwreck just offshore called The Dayspring which broke its moorings during a hurricane in 2005 and ended up in Lower Diabaig.

2/ It has its own Pub and Restaurant called Gille Brighde at the old schoolhouse which gets good write ups but for obvious reasons it is closed Oct-Apr.