Wigtwizzle - Norman Smith's Travel Blog.: strath

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Rubha Rèidh Lighthouse

A lighthouse on Rubha Rèidh Point was first proposed by David Stevenson in 1853. Building was started by his son, David Alan Stevenson in 1908 and the light was first lit on 15 January 1912. The light came from a paraffin lamp, subsequently converted to electricity and automated in 1986. The original lens, red fog siren trumpet, along with its clockwork timing mechanism were removed and were donated to the Gairloch heritage centre.

It's great to see that the lighthouse at Rubha Rèidh is once again accessible to the general public without them having to run a gauntlet of abuse from the previous owners. The lighthouse was bought by a couple and turned in to holiday accommodation in the early 2000s. They immediately started to stop people from using the road out of Melvaig by putting a sign up saying that it was private property and only to be used by guests of the lighthouse and I believe they also put a couple of gates across the road. This meant that anyone who wanted to visit the stunning coastal scenery of the area were faced with a four mile walk in before they even started and then a four mile walk back out.

Locals and visitors alike took up the cause to get access to the peninsula but it turned out to be a long fight with neither the police or council wanting to get involved although the Highland Council did eventually get involved and gave the owners the ultimatum of either giving access or facing court proceedings. The old owners finally left a year or so ago and the new ones seem to be a lot more amiable. There is now a small car park and even though you are not allowed on to the private land of the lighthouse, you are allowed to freely roam without fear of abuse.

The scenery is stunning with lots of small rocky coves and even a one-time natural harbour called Port an Amaill. Most of the rock cliffs slant down to the sea hence its Gaelic name Rubha Rèidh which means The Flat Headland. We visited in sunshine and pretty calm weather but I would love to experience the place when it is in the grip of a full-on Atlantic storm!

As I said in the last blog, this was our last day in Wester Ross and I don't think we could have bettered it. The morning was spent on a beautiful white sandy beach with stunning views across to An Teallach and the Coigach and Assynt Hills whereas in contrast, the afternoon was spent on a rugged rocky headland with far-reaching views to Skye and The Outer Hebrides.

Pure magic.

Rubha Rèidh Headland

Road down to the lighthouse

Rubha Rèidh Lighthouse

Rubha Rèidh Headland

Rubha Rèidh Lighthouse

Rubha Rèidh Headland

Camas a' Charraig and The Chapel of Sand of Udrigil

Yet another fabulous day and our last in the area. I have split it in to two blogs mainly for the purpose of posting photographs.

In the morning we had a drive up to the beach at Mellon Udrigle; it's proper name being Camas a' Charraig (gaelic for bay of rocks). It is probably one of the finest beaches in this area and commands views eastwards across Gruinard Bay to An Teallach and The Fisherfield Hills and northwards to the hills of Coigach, Assynt and The Summer Isles. Again the weather was just right for photography with sunshine where we were but dark foreboding fast moving clouds to the east and north.

We both split up and did our own thing; me photographing the beach and I think Sal wandered off to do a bit of beach combing and exploring the rocks at the far end of the bay. I think it was the prospect of a squall that brought us back together. In these parts you soon learn to beat a hasty retreat at the slightest hint of a weather change. I found that out the hard way last year at Mellon Charles when I got myself and two waterproof coats soaked in the space of fifteen minutes!

Last year we also noticed an old ruined church in the nearby village of Laide but didn't have the time to investigate so today was the perfect opportunity. The Chapel of Sand of Udrigil is traditionally said to have been erected by St Columba or one of his followers in the 7th Century, although the character of the building suggests a late medieval date for the existing structure. A church building is said to have been erected about 1713 by George MacKenzie of Gruinard, but in reality it is likely that work was limited to repairs and re-thatching. The chapel seems to have remained in use for worship until at least the end of the 18th century.

An added bonus to our visit was the sight of a small colony of seals on some rocks just offshore which could be seen from the graveyard walls. You can just about make one out in one of the photos.

Mellon Udrigle

Laide

The chapel of Sand of Udrigil, Laide

NC500 route Poolewe

Red Point Beach and Slatterdale

After yesterdays long drive to Lower Diabaig, we decided to have another local day and go for a short walk to one of the beaches at Red Point. There is a car park at the end of the road so most people just park up and head straight to the most accessible of the two beaches but we decided to investigate the farther of the two at the head of Upper Loch Torridon and we were both glad that we did.

It was only a short walk, taking us through a farm and across some rough pastures but it was well worth the bit of effort we put in. The beach swept round in a large curve and gave some fabulous views across to Applecross and the hills of Torridon. Unfortunately I wasn't able to catch that view on camera because, even though we had sunshine and blue skies, that area seemed to be getting some pretty abysmal weather.

That is what makes the photography in the Highlands so special though. About five years ago I spent four nights in this area followed by three nights on Skye and I had blue skies the whole time. Whilst it was great waking up to that everyday and touring about, once I was home and I'd started to process my photos, I soon began to realise how boring they looked and soon lost interest editing them. On the other hand me and Sal came up here last year and had what can best be described as a mixed bag of weather and I took some of the best photos I think I've ever taken and the same was happening this year.

Sal walked up to the ruins of the old salmon fishing station for a nosy whilst I had a look at the sand dunes and also investigated a headland named Sgeir a Bhuic which translated from Gaelic means 'rocky island of the buck' which makes sense because when the tide is in it does become an island. We spent a good while on the beach before wandering back to the car and heading in to Gairloch to have a coffee in the harbour cafe. We also managed to get to the butty shop just before it closed and got a couple of sandwiched to take back to the cottage for a late lunch.

Later in the afternoon I got in the car and drove down to Loch Maree with my camera and called in at The Victoria Falls, named after Queen Victoria who used to be a regular visitor to The Loch Maree Hotel. There was a short circular path up to the falls where I took a couple of nice shots and then I continued on the path and took some more looking back towards Loch Maree.

The cloud then started to pour in which ruined my attempts to get some good photos of Slioch (3218 feet) which towers above the Loch. I did manage to get one of a rainbow starting to form but it soon fizzled out.

Knowing when to admit defeat, I returned to the cottage to put my feet up. We both agreed that the walk on Red Point beach was the most enjoyable thing we had done so far on the holiday.

Red Point Beach

Old Salmon Fishing Station

Sand Dunes, Red Point

Sgeir a Bhuic, Red Point

Victoria Falls, Slatterdale

Slatterdale

Loch Maree from Slatterdale

Loch Maree and Slioch

Rainbow forming, on Slioch

Between the Showers at Opinon Beach

A very poor day weatherwise; the morning being foul with heavy rain and winds. We decided to go to Inverewe gardens for a coffee but arrived there only to find that it was closed for the rest of the year due to the virus. There didn't seem any point in travelling far so we drove the few miles back to Strath and went to the Mountain Coffee Cafe and then got a sandwich each from the local butty shop to take back with us as the weather didn't seem to be easing off. We went straight back to the cottage where Sal did some cross stitch whilst I put a DVD on.

The rain stopped late afternoon so I got my camera out and went to a local beach at Opinon which is only a few miles out of Badachro. On a clear day you get fabulous views across to The Isle of Skye but I just got the odd distant view on the rare occasions the cloud lifted. I wasn't really bothered though as I love to be on a beach when the sea is rough and the clouds are rolling by. I stayed there for quite a while and only decided to leave when some very dark clouds approached and I fvelt a few spots of rain. I just got back to the car before the heavens opened again.

We knew the bad weather day was coming as the forecast had predicted it a few days earlier and we were more than prepared. Sal had her sewing and wine and I had my DVDs and Abbeydale Beers! Pizza and chips for tea.

Opinon Beach

Staying Local

The past five days had been pretty tiring so we decided to make our first day in Wester Ross a local and relaxing day. Having said that I bet we still drove about twenty five miles in total and that was just going to the nearest shops and back!

On our way in to Gairloch, we drove past the secluded cove of Sheildaig which was only a mile or so out of Badachro and saw our first colony seals out on the rocks, not a bad way to start the holiday. Come the end of the week, I'm sad to say that seeing seals had become a regular occurrence and we finished up being quite blase about them.

One of the highlights of last years holiday was our visits to The Mountain Coffee Company Cafe at Strath which is really just a continuation of Gairloch and we were relieved to see that it was open for business again after the lockdown. The coffee was just as good, as was its ambience. There is always a hippytype 1960's feeling of peace and love in the place because everything and everyone is so laid back.

After out caffeine hit, we had a short walk along Strath beach. Unfortunately the tide was almost in so very little sand was showing but Sal still managed to do a bit of beach combing and came away with some interestingly shaped and coloured small shells.

We stopped for a wander around Gairloch Harbour on our way back and had yet another seal encounter. This one was massive and was circling under the pier hoping for one of the locals to land a catch. Both the fisherman and the seal were out of luck but at least it enabled Sal to get a cracking photo of the seal with its head popping out of the water and she came away a very happy bunny.

By now it was late afternoon so we decided to just head back to the cottage and relax. When you are staying in a hotel you think you have to make the most of every hour of the day but staying in a holiday let takes that pressure off and that day we were quite content to just sit and relax and enjoy being together.